Burda 2011-07- 113

originally published July 7, 2011

 

.I’m really intrigued by this lovely blouse.  No I won’t post pictures.  I’ve given up trying to navigate Burda’s new and improved website and they’ve been pretty harsh with others who’ve uploaded pics.  I feel that Burda doesn’t care for their English speaking customer base and would just as soon that we all went away. I guess our $$$ is not as good as other currency.  Ah, forgive slight political rant and lets get back to sewing… So I look at this and I see a raglan sleeve top with true cap sleeves.  It has a narrow band across the bottom and again at the top with ties and a Rose.

I’m really excited about the use of a sheer with solid fabric.  The sheer is not an overlay but is the fabric of the sleeves and actually joined to the the solid in the seam lines.  I’ve had less than stellar success with joining solid fabrics together.  My attempts were denim or upholstery fabrics and then a second woven or knit fabric.  Invariably my seams deteriorated and pretty quickly.  With knits the seams stretched badly. I had expected the woven fabric to stabilize the knit and was surprised at the ripply knit side of the seam. With other woven fabrics, the lighter fabric always pulled and shredded. I not only love the look at the Burda blouse, but I want to know how to handle fabrics of two extremely different weights as one garment.

My fabric choices are a 100% silk in a primitive print and a 100% cotton crinkle-gauze.

I think the rose would detract from the feel and tone of my primitive silk fabric.  But  if I lose the rose, am I losing the feel of the garment?

I tested some seams. Not shown is the yellow interlock fabric that I was considering in place of the crinkle gauze. I tested both with narrow 1/8″ french seams.  Originally I had wanted to use a 3 thread rolled seam (serger) or 4 thread if the additional security was needed.  But one of my SG angels said that she’d had success with similar fabrics and the narrow french seam.  Indeed, this is a terrific choice.  The swatch above shows my preferred fabrics after a trip through a normal laundry cycle and typical ironing (yes I iron).

I’ve already traced the pattern. Well, traced half.  I couldn’t understand why Burda had put a full front and a full back pattern on the master sheet. When I looked for differences, I couldn’t see any and proceeded to tissue fit

My tissue fitting revealed too much ease at the back neckline.  I’m not sure about the sleeve, it does look small and I wonder if it will bind. If I were using all knits, I wouldn’t be concerned. But using all wovens (or had I been using a woven and a knit), I wonder about the fit and strain on the seams.  Even with french seams, the sheer fabrics will not hold with too much stress.  And then….

..it was pointed out that the garment is Asymmetrical. Another responder pointed out that Burda was attempting to achieve an off the shoulder look. Oops. I like asymmetrical,,, on other people. On myself, I worry with the garment the entire day. It’s just not a comfortable look for me. I don’t “Rock It”, I pick, nit and worry it. An easy solution is to cut the garment without the asymmetry, but will I lose the over all look of the garment?  I feel the same way about the off-the shoulder business.  It’s not and has never been a comfortable look for me. Should I eliminate it?

I”m still pondering these questions.

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