Burda 2011 07 120: Tissue Alterations

originally published July 22, 2011

 

This is one of those styles I loved for the ruffles. Just loved loved loved it. I intended to make it up someday, which is turning out to be now.  I did a careful analysis of the pattern design as well as asking for input from members of Stitchers Guild.  This style is:

  • sleeveless
  • horizontal bust dart
  • front yoke integrated to the back
  • front neckline slit
  • side hem vents
  • bias tape to finish the armscyes and back neck
  • a front facing which helps to turn the neckline slit
  • lots of yummy lace.
  • does not look to be closely fitted
  • shoulders end about 1″ inward of the wearer’s shoulder
  • the neckline is high and the front slit is low
  • I think the garment is ending at the high hip
  • The lace, armscyes, front and back neckline are finished before the yokes are sewn together
  • Recommended fabrics: fine light weight blouse weight or fine jersey
  • There are some construction instructions that I don’t want to address here but will later.

So using the advice of cmarie12 and SFD, I look for a basic TNT. I have Louise Cuttings My Hearts A Flutter shell fitted and I’ve rotated the bust dart from the amscye to the horizontal.  So I’ve got a sleeveless shell with horizontal bust dart.  Even better, it too is set up for side vents.

But I don’t have a new tissue pattern.  I have Burda’s wonderful master pattern sheet:

A trick I learned from AnnR is to find the pattern piece numbers on the horizontal side and circle them

Now you can put your finger on the number and move in a straight vertical line across the page.  My pattern piece happens to be almost immediately above the circled number but the pattern piece will be straight across from the number even if it all the way on the other side.  When I find the number next to the pattern piece, I trace the pattern piece with my finger. That’s gives me a bird’s eye view of the piece I want to trace onto vellum.  I traced 10 Burda patterns in a few hours using this method.  But I can do better.

Piece 1 is my front, so I place my front from the HAF shell lined up with the shoulder and center front.

A quick look tells me that my HAF shell is exactly like the Burda front except, the neck is higher, the shoulder is wider and the bust dart, while being the same size is 1/2″ further to the side.  I’m not showing a pic of that, because my photo taking capabilities have not improved enough to give a pic that would make any sense.  I use repositional tape to secure my HAF pattern to the Burda master sheet. Then I put a clean sheet of tracing paper on top:

This is not exactly like cmarie12 and SFD sandwich.  Their sandwich is

TNT Pattern

New Pattern

Tissue paper

Mine is:

New Pattern (Burda master pattern sheet)

TNT pattern

Tissue Pattern

Unlike cmarie12 and SFD I did not trace the entire pattern, I traced about 4 inches of the center front, around the neckline but meeting with the HAF neckline edge, across the shoulder over to the armscye for the HAF and down about 1″.  I know that if I trace the entire Burda pattern, the next thing I will do is trim the tissue; pin it together, try it on Mimie and then make the backwaist length and narrow shoulder alterations.  I did not trace across Burda’s shoulder now, just to slash and bring it back to the size of my HAF pattern.  I repeated the process for the back tracing only about 4 inches of the center back, the neckline over to the HAF shoulder, across the shoulder and then down about 1″ of the HAF armscye. I did trace the entire pattern piece #3 which is the front facing.

What I ended up with is 3 small pieces. Not shown because after tracing and trimming ready to align temporarily with my HAF pattern pieces, I stopped to read Burda’s instructions in slow detail.  To my surprise I discovered that this pattern has the front yoke integrated with the back piece.  This explains why the neckline looked so terribly high.  I mean I was looking at the 2″ low neckline and thinking it would choke me even with the belly-button deep slit.  —I should stop and confess here that I have problem finding all the markings on Burda’s pattern sheet.  That’s partly why I also stopped here in the process to ask SG members for their input.–   Now that I realized a yoke should be subtracted from the front and added to the back, I looked closely at the Burda master sheet and couldn’t see a shoulder mark. So I did a WAG (wild a$$ed guess) estimating where and what angle the yoke should be.  I pencil marked a line on my front pattern piece, added a seam allowance and then traced my new front yoke.  The front I folded at the yoke line and tucked beneath the front out of sight, out of mind.

I trimmed the yoke piece

and taped it to the back piece overlapping by my seam allowance widths.

Next I returned the front and back pieces to their respective places on Burda’s master sheet.  Now comparing the pattern pieces I could see the only difference was that the width across the front and shoulders. Gee just exactly the thing I would alter and remove with my narrow shoulder alteration.

I got slightly off track to start with on this pattern, but I did use that exact same procedure when creating the pattern for my last project Burda 2011 07 113.  What is so nice about this is in 7-10 minutes I go from new untried pattern to sewing with my TNT pattern.  Had the ease been greatly different, I would have pinned the tissue together and checked it on Mimie.  But so far I’ve been amazed at how closely alike the pattern pieces are.  It takes me a few seconds less that cmarie12 or SFD because I’m not tracing the entire piece. But then it takes me a second or two longer as I realign and tape the new pieces in place.

I ‘ll probably be refining my new process as I go along.  But I much much much prefer this to tracing the pattern, trimming the tissue, pinning the tissue together, trying it on Mimie and then making the narrow shoulder and back waist length alterations.  Just as I wanted, I’ve skipped most of this boring time consuming process.

and eternally grateful……………………..

cmarie12  SFD, I am

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