Burda 2011 07 120

originally published July 22, 2011

.My version:


I raised the front slit, no surprise there, by about 4 inches.  It would have opened all the way to the innermost row of lace. I wanted to be able to wear this in decent company.  I used many more rows of lace than the pattern called for.  I wanted to use what I had on hand in the ecru range.  Some of my laces were only 1/2″.  Most were flat laces which meant I spent time with a generic gathering foot. Make that frustrating time with a generic gathering foot.  I will buy the foot engineered for my HV Ruby sewing machine.  I’m convinced that the generics while nice do not work as well as the feet engineered for your specific machine.  I think I’ll need the foot because the ruffles and flounces I so love are once again in fashion.  I do believe I will have much future use of this foot.



My fabric is a 100% cotton, so nice for summer wear but does wrinkle terribly.  I was thinking of AnnR when I looked at the pictures.  Yes I ironed this blouse repeatedly and spray starched it too.  I set the camera up, changed to the blouse and took pics. Already the blouse is wrinkled.  It’s the nature of natural fibers. But I did make the effort.


If you read the previous post, you’ll know that technically this is not the Burda pattern.  I used only the facing from the magazine.  The front and back are adapted from my HAF pattern which I love so well.  I did make a real yoke this time and I sewed the lace ends into the yoke.  The pattern has you finish the ends and then sew the yoke together with out catching the lace.  The armscye edge has a slightly different look than my version.  While I like the look of the Burda, I kept wondering if the bulge would dig into my arm and irritate me.  I also was fighting with a weird issue on my new HV Ruby. (OK she is 7 months old but that’s new in sewing machine years.)  I kept hearing a weird thump.  Which I thought I was hearing in the bobbin area.  Many attempts at disassembling the bobbin unit, cleaning and reassembling would temporarily ease the thump but not clear the issue.  It took the completely loss of tension on the upper thread and a call to the tech several days later to finally clear up my issue.  Turns out, the bobbin assembly is very finicky about it’s placement.  If you hear a thump, it is not correctly assembled, even if it looks right, or sews correctly.  Now I know, at the time I was a little distracted from the sewing at hand.


Sorry for the look on my face and the lack of a back picture.  All I have are 2 versions of the face above.  I suppose I could crop the face out, but that still would let you see the back.  The HAF pattern is really an A-line shape from the shoulders to high hip, with a front bust dart for a little shaping. It’s especially nice in the summer as it allows some very welcome air circulation.  It’s also so much easier to fit and very flattering since it skims the curves and hints at the womanly shape beneath.   It’s really a wonderful pattern that I’ve successfully used with an ITY knit.  I’m rapidly make this my personal sloper/basic block as well as go to summer top.



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