Originally published June 22, 2010
I have another sewing project to share, Version 2 of Burda Vest 2010-06-103/104
This time I altered the back waistlength so that the waist line marking on the pattern would at least approximate my nautral waist. I also used the Comfort-Waistband trick and stitched a 3/8″ strip of clear elastic into the back of the vest. My trial looked good. I really thought I had it solved.
The vest looks good on the outside despite the fact that I ran out of matching thread and could only do 2 parallel rows of stitching only the front. The armscye area has only a single row of edge stitching. This occured because I decided to serge finish the edges and then turn and stitch the serging. I wanted to avoid or minimize contrast between the vest and my clothing, unlike the red and white vision where the line between vest and clothing is sharply defined:
The serge, turn-and-stitch however gives the vest a loving-hands-at-home interior. I had a notion to use my blind hemmer to anchor the serger edge to the inside — it wanted to flip up and be noticeable on the outside. The blind hemmer is similar to the cover-stich hem in that it creates a beautiful hem, quickly and easily WHEN everything works right. When it doesn’t I have an ugly mess which is easier to remove than cover-stitching. I know, because I once again removed a big mess. Which is partly why I ran out of matching thread. Had I simply topstitched two rows to start with, I would have had enough thread. The area that I was unable to top stitch a second time (for lack of matching thread), I chose the next closest thread color and did the Heirloom Sewing automatic blind stitch. Don’t worry, that stitich is on your machine. It’s the regular blind stitch but you fold an additional time. Your 3 or 4 straight stitches stitch on air only the zag catches all layers together. Done right, it too is beautiful. I avoid it though because I have a tendancy to miss several of the zags in a row. ( I don’t know how, I only know that this is a thing I can rely upon to happen.)
Back to the vest. Yes exactly to the back of the vest shown here:
Now if you noticed, I have something similar to a sweater clip on the front of the vest. Actually I made that. I found some large fishing swivels, removed the clip and attached a small aligator gripper to each side. I’d like something fancier, but until I know if this works, I don’t want to invest more time. Oh and it doesn’t work. Oh it holds the front together, but look at the back. The back has horizontal folds. Those same folds were present in the red and white version and were present before I added the front clip. I was hoping that the front clip would pull the vest into place and the folds would just, you know, go away.
Now that I think of it, Burda never showed the back of the vest, other than the diagrams; and their suggested back was either lycra or straps of some kind. Always be dubious. If the magazine doesn’t show you something, there’s probably something they don’t want you to see.
But the conclusion is, this vest is easy to sew. Takes only a fraction of fabric, excellent for using up those 1/2 yards stacked up in the stash. There are several ways to finish the outside edges and back. It’s adaptable. With little effort, I changed the bottom curve of the front vest. I like the way it feels on me and looks from the front. It definitely works as a summer vest for carrying my toys; and would work well if I wanted to wear a vest and a jacket at the same time. The loving-hands condition is my fault, not the vest. But I still wont’ be making this vest again. Even with minimal contrast, the back is a shock. It definitely emphasizes how wide I am in that area. But I like this well enough, that I’m looking for something similar that would create a vertical line up the back. I’ve even been wondering if I could draft something suitable starting with my classic vest You know, a FRANKENPATTERN.