originally published Sep 18, 2012
Previously published under the title “Ottobre Design”
Just a quick view of the finished blouses made from Burda 2010-08-130.
V3, I did all the top stitching and finishing as planned and then because it’s still quite warm here, I took photos on Mimie. Mimie’s not my shape anymore so the blouse looks a little different on me. But better on Mimie than on a hanger.
I also fixed the hem of V2 and then hung it on Mimie while I tried to remember what else I was supposed to fix. For grins, I added the vest from the Autumn 6PAC and said, WHOA this is blouse #2 for my Autumn 6PAC. The colors are good together and the vest hides all ills.
Next I wanted to fit Burda 2010-08-106. I really like the shape of that pattern in use with vertical stripes. I traced a new copy using my table of sizes posted previously. Then I compared the fitted 130 with the newly traced 106. This started me scratching my head. 106 has a back+front yoke combined at the shoulders. I had to join the pieces in order to compare with the back of 130. The back of the newly traced and graded (size 44 was the largest and my hips need two sizes large) 106 was about 1/2″ wider than the 130. Ok not bad. I had noticed that the back on 130 seemed to hug my back — almost as if the back were being pulled forward. I thought perhaps the front needed more ease but maybe it is the back which should be larger. The armscye and yoke area had me stumped. 130 is clearly a drop shoulder style. The shoulder line neatly curves over and downward to meet the sleeve. It is difficult to compare for fitting a drop shoulder style and the high and tight armscye of 106. I knew from my previous attempt it was far too high even when scooped 3/4″ . I compared the front as well. While the width matched the front armscye presented the same issue for me. I knew there was no point is using this armscye. It is too tight for me, but how to alter??? I also realized if I altered the armscye, I needed to alter the sleeve cap. When I compared the sleeves, I found the sleeve at the armscye of 130 to be 6″ wider than 106. Now I was really uneasy. I want to use a pattern with the fitted shoulder/armscye area. I wanted to build upon the knowledge gained by making 3 versions of 130 and umptyfrat previous tops that I worked hard at getting to fit after cutting out. I took a pause and considered my options. If I wanted a fitted shoulder area, I couldn’t simply copy the armscye from 130. But I already knew that scooping 3/4″ into the armscye of 106 had not created a wearable garment. My first version of 106 is already in the landfill.