Archive | July 2014

Uncommon Abbreviations

I use some of the same terms over and over but they aren’t common to the general public and may not be readily understood by every sewist.  I’ve been following common courtesy by spelling out the first instance accompanied with abbreviation and then using the abbreviation when needed subsequently i.e. Water Soluble Thread (WST) the first time then just WST.  Frankly, I know I’m lazy. I also tire of writing out these terms over and over. Yet I know that very people have read my every post and few of them are likely to understand all my abbreviations. But I’m still lazy.  I’ve opted for what I hope is an acceptable substitute. I’ve created a page on my base blog  titled “uncommon abbreviations” and I will link my abbreviations to that page. Granted the reader will have to scroll down that list to find my definition which could be a bit inconvenient for them. I apologize for that and the fact I am slightly lazy. But I’ve learned I can’t please everyone. So it’s most important that I’m satisfied with myself.

Uncommon Abbreviations


Wearable Muslin Continues

Once the pattern was altered I was eager to  finish. Well, more than eager. The pattern stage seemed ultra long. I had in fact altered two patterns, completed one garment and wore it for a full day to verify fit.  But the whole point was to get this pattern ready to makeand it felt long.  I decided to skip the center front placket  opting for a pull-over, V-neck shell. I kept the center back seam because it can  add shaping; and I’m worried that I might actually be at the point in life of needing a sway back alteration. I’m also concerned about the cute gathering detail in front.

I have a tummy. I had it when I weighed 96 pounds. I had even more of it when I was 196 pounds.  Considerably weighing less now, I still have a tummy. Done wrong and an empire line screams P-R-E-G-G-E-R-S.  It’s something I’m a little sensitive about and wish to avoid any discussion.

I chose a light weight fabric I think we called dotted swiss when I was younger.  This is not like a white, regularaly spaced,  polka dot on a colored background. It’s more of a big slub occurring randomly. Very organic.  It’s a blue and white rose print. The roses vary in size, most largish.  When I laid  out the fabric for cutting, I could tell it had a subtle one-way direction. Also I think this is a polyester. I didn’t make a burn test. It just doesn’t feel like cotton between my fingers and it doesn’t wrinkle -a sure sign of man-made fibers.  I don’t remember acquiring this fabric. I’m guessing it either came in the door in one of Fabric Mart bundles or was in the box someone gave me years ago.  I kind of like it, I’m just not sure what it is.

I stitched the front darts. I marked the waist and back darts with disappearing ink. I didn’t sew the fish-eye back darts.  I made more of a pin tuck that starts and stops where the darts do. From looking at the pieces on Mimie, I thought the waist was too high.  I didn’t want to stitch the fisheye too high.  I used baby hems for the sleeves and bottom of the dress. Self-bias gave me a very narrow nice finish at the neckline.

I was planning a straight across hem, but when I popped the garment on Mimie at the end of sewing day 1 and said Opps

This was definitely looking smock like. I trimmed off the bottom hem, curved it and finished with a baby hem. During fitting, I discovered that I needed  shoulder pads. This top emphsized the roundness my shoulders are developing.

To my surprise, adding the shoulder pads (shown in the pic above), besides giving me an excellent shoulder line, also eliminated a slight mid-back fold. Much more surprising was that the front which initially felt too loose  in the upper bodice now hugged my body, no longer an issue:

But I still have a slight preggars look. This may be my fault.  I didn’t read Burda Instructions. I rarely do because I find them hard to understand. I used clear elastic  and gathered along the indicated line using a 3-step zig zag stitch. The process was easy. I allowed for 1″ gathering over the 8″ gathering line.  That was a little too much. I’m not changing this version. Because I used clear elastic, I can relax some of the gathering by clipping the elastic at intervals. In the future, I can gather less, or extend the gathering line and amount of elastic used.

I’m just glad I decided upon a muslin, even this wearable muslin. I like the style. Definitely plan on making it again, with the V hemline, button placket and various sleeve lengths.  What I will change is to drop the the waistline mark along with the fish-eyed back darts. ( I want the waist shaping to fall at or 1/32″ above my actual waist.) I may also remove a little over all ease. Thing is, this much ease really does make this a temperature reducing garment.  As well as being comfortable to wear.

I’m not really sure but possibly I should have called this a Burda inspired garment.  I did trace all the pattern pieces. But I fit the pattern not by grading and musling but by super-imposing upon a well fitting existing pattern. I also made major changes [hemline, buttonplackette an neckline depth). But it is what it is and I will be happy to make future versions with the final tissues.