Finally a robe I want and can wear!
I started with an old Burda #112 in May 1992. I knew what I wanted. I wanted the caftan I wore in the 80’s but couldn’t find an exact match. I thought this pattern might be close.
This is actually a tunic. I traced a size 48, one size up from what Burda says will fit me. I learned or remembered after making the last garment that Burda doesn’t allow as much ease as I like. I made my usual 1″ NSA and BWL alterations before adding 23″ in length. Why 23? I wanted a long robe. My favorite caftan (which is so snagged it needs to be thrown away) is 53″ long from shoulder to hem. The pattern needed an additional 23″ to be 53″ long. I measured the hip and decided after the last robe, I wanted 8″ of ease. Double what Bruda drafted both for the previous and the current garment. I added 1″ to the front side seam but at the last second 1.5″ to the back side seam. Pretty much, I’m adding 1/2″ to the back side seam at the hip regardless of whether I’m making tops or bottoms. My garments seem to fit better when I allow and extra inch of ease across my behind.
I’m using a typical robe fabric: stretch tricot backing with plush printed face. I think it’s 100% polyester but it is nice polyester. I purchased 3 yards about this time last year as I knew I wanted another robe but didn’t know exactly what pattern I wanted to use. At this time, Nov 2015, I want this robe ASAP which meant to me few seams, details, embellishments or any other fancy stuff.
I serged the shoulder seams and slipped it over my head to check the neckline depth. I started with 9″ (pattern default) but changed to 13″ for easy of pulling over the head and to accommodate my 1″ (finished) binding. I did the cheaters V-neck i.e. serge that band around ignoring the angle of the V then folding along center front and stitching the neck-band at an angle. It’s quick, easy and makes a good V. I should admit that I basted the band into place to check length and then serged away. I also top stitched the band to keep the serging flat. It will tend to roll upward with time and cleaning.
The pattern appears to be a slight dolman and indeed it has about 1″ of the armscye curve attached to the body. But when basting in the sleeve I found that shoulder/armscye extension rather disappeared. This is one of the things I liked so much about my 80’s caftan pattern. It produces a slightly fitted armscye, set-in sleeve without all the drama. I basted side seams from 10″ vent to the raw sleeve edge before trying on. Decided that despite the fact I had added 1.5″ to the back and 1″ to the front along the hip, I wanted a little more ease. Entirely my perction. The garment looked fine. I felt it was a little close. Afterwards, I serged the sleeves to the body of the garment, finished hems and vents and serged the long side-underarm seam at 1/4″. Done! Start to finish maybe 4 hours. Love this kind of sewing.
It displays both the drag lines from bust to side seam and the uneven hem (front is higher). Both issues that have become the bain of my recent fitting.
And my shoulders are still slightly uneven which seems to also mean my hips are uneven producing some drag lines.
But, guys, this is a robe; and I am an old lady. No matter how comfortable it is, I’m not wearing this garment out of the house. When the UPS guy comes to the door, he disappears so quickly I’m not sure he even sees me. He certainly wouldn’t notice these few fitting issues. Think I’m just going to be happy at having a new robe I love to wear.