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Autumn 2012 6-PAC, Garment #4

originally published Sep 7, 2012

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is a vest from Burda May 1999 Style 127

I knew immediately I would not be applying the front bellows pockets. My tummy bellows enough in that area and in truth I don’t need pockets for garments I wear around the house. I was curious about the flaps and as I worked with them realized this vest which I thought would be a one-shot deal, could be made multiple ways. This was not a pattern to be traced once and discarded, but a pattern than could have multiple personalities.

I made two other initial changes. I opted to fully line the vest although I didn’t use nearly as much interfacing. I much prefer the way my vests wear when they are fully lined. It’s like the difference between a fully lined jacket and a jacket with big facings. The pattern also calls for a front zipper. I don’t even like separating zippers and didn’t hesitate a second to change that to an easy beaded-loop closure.

I made the tissues changes as decided in my previous post. That is I traced the shoulders at a 38 but used a size 40 for the other cutting lines. After trimming the tissue, I added a 2″ FBA to the front and a 2″ waist dart to the back. The sides were hardly shaped at all so I did not make the 1″ BWL. During my first fitting I realized that the armscyes would be too small and tight when worn over most of my sleeved garments. I decided to cut the armscye in 1/2″ at the shoulder and 1″ under the arm. I used my french curve to draw lines between. At the time of the first fitting I always thought “this is so plain.”

I don’t know what my fabric is. I was surprised at how difficult it was to sew with. The lining kept creeping away from the edge so that either it didn’t meet the edge or I was stopping and tugging it back to avoid having the lining 1″ passed the fabric edge. Eventually I begin basting each piece and then either sewing or serging them together. What should have been quick construction was very slow because of the fabric. The front appears to be a bright apricot corduroy but there is a scrim on the back. The corduroy is not woven. It appears to be sprayed or glued to the back. It is the softest smoothest corduroy I’ve ever felt and it has the distinctive nap of a corduroy. In fact I chose to cut the yoke and shoulder/pocket flaps on the cross grain so that I could highlight the nap and grain.

I then topstitched two lines 4mm long; AND when I looked at the vest I thought, “how plain”.

I took the time to experiment with buttons and bought these new ornately styled buttons which are placed on each shoulder flap plus on either side of the closure. For the moment they are pinned into place. I want to wear the garment one time before committing to this ornamentation.

As for fit, I’m pleased. The garment should meet in the middle and hang smooth. I may be getting a bit too much ease at the hem, but the rest looks good. It has nearly straight sides and so should hang straight from the shoulders in the back, which it pretty much does. There may be a bit of extra ease, but I’m not seeing the poofyness that was present in previous garments. I think my fitting changes are beginning to work.

That completes my 3rd layer, a vest, and the 4th garment of my Autumn 2012 6PAC

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