originally published Sep 13, 2012
.I hate making muslins. Nonetheless, I have to admit my first attempt at Burada 106 August 2010 has turned into a muslin. It actually doesn’t look that bad (given that I’m tired and show it. I need a hair cut… and it shows. Oh and I’ve worn my pants all day long, without a belt. AND it shows.)
When I first slipped on the blouse,I noticed that it seemed a bit tight under the arms (*I’ll come back to this) and had barely enough room for my tummy and rear. The pictures paint a different story. The front pooches into a belly and possesses a gaping front neckline. I had decided to cut the cuff so the stripe would create a horizontal line. It’s not only a nice change for the eye, but eliminates pattern matching. I used my too-favorite cuff style which I think of as the LH-cuff. I made Loes Hinse Tunic Blouse and have copied that cuff everywhere. It is perfect for making a narrowing at the wrist, a finished narrowing at the wrist, while not having to sew a lot. There is no fussy vent, clipping, trimming, Frey-Blocking–non of that stuff. Unfortunately without the neckline band the front just lacks oomph. I need to take full responsibility for messing up the front placket. I neglected to read the instructions and started the placket by interfacing and then serging to the center front. This should have been a narrow, concealed, button placket. Due to my error and subsequent refusal to unserge, my front placket is too wide and definitely not concealed. The only plus is that having not made the concealed placket, I was able to button the front over my tummy.
The back has two in-your-face problems. The horizontal strip on the back yoke, clearly forms a segment of a circle. This fabric, this style, begs for shoulder pads–but *I’ll come back to that story. The back shows a big pouf of fabric between mid back and high hip. If I normally made a sway-back adjustment, I’d suspect that I needed a really deep sway back adjustment but the side tells a different story…
…because the side shows the front hem lifting in the back, dropping towards the side and again lifting at the center front. Clearly there is insufficient ease across the tummy and hips i.e. adding 1″ ease to front and again to the back was not enough. I’m surprised by the distinctive diagonal lines below the bust. I expected a “ghost”, at least a hint of needed ease because blouses without horizontal bust darts never fit the feminine figure. I’m rather flat in this area (remember my barrel comparison yesterday?) but was still expecting a hint that more ease was need for the bust. These surprisingly, deep, diagonal folds could be resulting from the insufficient ease lower down. That is because if there is insufficient ease in the hip and tummy, the garment tries to push upward and deeper folds will form where there may have been only a hint or shadow before.
Of course, all ills can be covered up:
and in a pinch I would do that. My real trouble here is * the armscye is too tight. (Remember I promised more information? Here is it.) I’m perplexed by the tightness of the underarm. It’s not just high, it’s cutting into me. At picture-taking time, I have scooped out 3/4″. I know I added seam allowances. That’s not the problem. I also know that there is not very much difference between size 38 and 40 until you get to the underarm. At the underarm a size 40 is 1/2″ wider, which adds in total 2″ across the bust but the 40 has only a 1/8″ deeper armscye. So, what’s wrong here? My previous Burda 2010-08-130 blouse, which should be noted is from the same issue and quite probably the same block, fits comfortably in the armscye. My issue with 130 was the diagonal folds above the hip. Why would this blouse have an armscye which is too shallow?