Originally published Oct 11, 2011
I finally narrowed my selection of coat pattrns down to this Burda pattern in January 2011 #110. I was surprised. I dislike those sleeves with the zippers. I can see catching those on anything and everything. Snagging things wherever I go. But I put it in the list and kept it because I wanted a pattern with
- the fewest possible pieces due to the ravely nature of my wool
- this length (I actually thought I would make another coat but this length)
- a slim sleeve (which this doesn’t have without the zippers)
- easy pockets (I need pockets but because of the wool want something simple)
- trim shaping (I discarded the duffel coats fairly quickly)
- winter worthy i.e. it needs to close high on the neck and help shut out those prairie winds
I was surprised when the choice was between this and one other pattern. My final decision came down to the realization that I could easily swap out those sleeves and have the trim fitting winter coat I desired.
Unfortunately the pic Burda provides, as usual, doesn’t really tell you about the details of the garment. For that you need the schematic:
and the pattern pieces
These two little pics deep in the innards of the magazine, show me that I will be working with only a few pieces and that shaping will be accomplished at the back seam and by the rather long large darts.
The instructions say to stitch the darts and then trim and press open. I’m not sure if I will be trimming the darts. I would need to trim and then stay stitch somehow. I’m also not entirely sure about buttonholes. I’d love to make bound buttonholes, but I’m afraid the fabric will fall apart faster than I can stitch it. But then again that part will be fused. Burda is rather skimpy on the interfacing. Thanks to my press and rotary cutter with pinking blade, I’ll be much more generous.
Burda specifies a knit loden fabric for 110 and a boucle for 109 (Burda is good at working TNT’s). Although most of the pieces are the same and therefore the same size, Burda recommends lining 109 but not lining 110. I’m assuming that’s because the fabric used for 110 was a knit. My fabric is a loosely woven wool. I will be using the fashion fabric, lots of interfacing and a lining. I may even add an interlining. My wool coat with lining will be heavy which makes me hesitate about the interlining. I’m afraid the interlining would strain the seams. But an interlining would provide several advantages.
- Interfacing would be applied to the interlining and therefore not show on the fashion fabric but would provide all suppport needed.
- Interlining would be another barrier to those prairie winds I talked about earlier. You don’t know cold before 30+mph winds racining along 6′ snow drifts attempt to penetrate all layers of clothing. Brrrrrrrrrr. Brrrrrrrrrrr (and in some parts of the world, it’s even worse!)
- Interlining, stay stitched to the fashion fabric, would help control the raveling of the wool. Serged to the fabric, would end all raveling.
- Interlining while adding weight, would also provide support for the garment. I’m considering double seaming of some type probably serged and then straight stitch to be sure the seams can support the weight. But I want to be able to press the seams open. Maybe it would be better to plan on pressing to one side and top stitching?
- I will be using shoulder pads which could be attached between underlining and lining. In that position shoulder pads are not visible and never come loose. Yes that has happened to me. I’ve also had shoulder pads fold up inside. What a pain to rip out the lining and rearrange. I added a few additional stitches to keep the shoulder pads in place which then made the pads visible on the outside. Mess; what a mess.
I do admit that having made up my mind, I’m anxious to get on with it. But first I must finish up my 3rd and I hope final prototype for the one-seam pants. Hopefully, I’ll have pics of those tomorrow.