originally published August 25, 2011
This pattern is likely to be an instant classic. As drafted it has a jewel neck, is tunic length, with cut-on (dolman), 7/8 (length) sleeves. A lot of shaping is built into the side seams and I suspect the shoulder seam.
I compared Loes Hinse 5213 with this pattern before tracing. I’ve previously made and love LH5213 which has raglin sleeves instead of the cut on sleeves but is close fitting. There are few personal garments that I want to have negative ease. So when I compared the two I decided to cut 1 size larger. I do believe that worked for me, but here you can see why I don’t care for negative ease:
I chose a stripe because Burda used a stripe in their version. Well, that’s putting the cart before the horse. I had 4 possible fabrics including a stripe for the last top in my Autumn 2011 6PAC. As soon as I saw Burda’s version as a stripe, I decided to use the stripe from my possibles and Burda’s pattern. However, a stripe used in this fashion tends to emphasize the roundness of my shoulders and tummy. So while I like the pattern, I probably won’t use stripes in future versions.
BTW in the Side View did you look at how the stripes matched on the top of the sleeve? I had decided when tracing that there was no way the stripes would match on the sleeves either top or bottom and laid my fabric out matching only at the sides where Burda had thoughtfully put a tick mark big enough and plain enough for me to see and find. When sewing I found that the sides matched perfectly, the top of the shoulder seam matched pretty well and the underseam of the sleeve is totally unmatched. Well how often will I be raising my arms for people to see that seam? Not often. So the stripe matching was an unqualified success. At least in my mind.
As far as fit, I could use a bit more ease across the hips and I too see the fold at my armpit indicating the fabric needs a dart. I think that is one of the isses with the style of cut-on sleeve. To eliminate the fold I’d need to cut a gusset. Which would make this top more complex. Finally Burda has used a neckline that I can wear anywhere. I did not need to raise the neckline or make any shoulder alterations (narrow shoulder is my 2nd normal alteration).
This is a great pattern “out of the envelope”, but I did make a few changes. I did my normal removing 1″ from the backwaist length. This puts the waist and hip shaping at the level of my waist and hips. I also shortened the lenghth by another 3″. On me, tunic style tops require slim, very slim dark bottoms; almost legging slim. I wanted this wearable with my 6PAC pants both of which have trouser legs. This top had to be shortened to look good with all the pants. I also prefer cap, quarter, 3/4 or full length sleeves. These are my best lengths.On me, a 7/8 length sleeve looks like it shrunk and I’ve got nothing else to wear. I chopped 3.5″ off the length of the sleeves and hemmed them another 1″. My sleeve feels a little tight at it’s hem. When I make this pattern, I’ll add 1/4″ ease starting at the hem of sleeve pattern. But essentially this is the size 44 on a woman who wears a RTW size 14. I top stitched hems and used FOE (fold over elastic) on the neckline.
This is the pattern to use when you need a new knit top NOW. 2 pattern pieces, 2 seams 3 hems and a neck finish. Boom. You’re done. It’s even quicker if you skip the hems and neckline finish.
I did wonder if Burda used the wildly successful turtleneck pattern from December 2010, as the basis for this pattern. There are notable differences, neckline, garment length, sleeve length, but this new pattern distinctively reminds me of the earlier version. I didn’t make the December 2010 Turtle Neck (I have a very similar and equally easy Butterick version). So I can’t compare the two without a lot of effort. I will be watching to see if anyone else makes the connection and then a comparison.
AND that makes Garment #5 of my Autumn 211 6PAC