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Burda Booboo (2014-02-130)

When I saw this top in Burda Issue 02-2104

I fell in love. This is just so charming. It looks like a narrow scarf  attached to the back neckline and looped through front.  Should be pretty easy, right?

I’m not sure where I went wrong.

I started with a TNT, Pamela’s Patterns 104.  I chose this pattern instead of my beloved Otto (2006-02-01), because the Burda schematic appeared to be pretty shapely. PP104 is shapely. Otto, not so much.  All I needed to do was adapt the neck for the hole.  You know, I don’t care for drafting patterna, but a neckline change shouldn’t be too bad.  I traced the Burda front from waist to shoulder. Did the same for PP104 and then altered PP104 so that it had the same shape and opening as the Burda.  I’m really sure that any differences are due to the fitting tweaks I’ve got in my PP104. Maybe I’m wrong. Maybe altering my PP104 was not the route to go.

I chose a slinky knit.  Fashion Fabrics had these on sale last summer and I bought everything I liked — 1.5 yards at a time.  Knowing how slinky wants grow, I folded out 1/8″
( removed 1/4″ ease) across bodice and again across the hip.  Maybe the slinky caused the failure. Maybe I should have removed the ease through the hole.

I didn’t quite follow the finishing instructions for the hole either.  Burda wants you to trim the hole (or slit as they call it) 3/4″ and then turn and stitch.  I don’t like a turn and stitch finish. I also didn’t want to enlargen that hole.  I trimmed 1/4″ and then finished with narrow FOE (fold over elastic).  I really must make it habit to grab the FOE and stock more colors and more widths (guess who isn’t reducng their stash rapidly). I used a narrow zig zag 1mm wide 6 long to secure elastic.  The narrow FOE was a little fiddly but did make a nice finish.   Or, so I thought. Maybe it was the FOE which ruined the garment.

But I think the real problem is either I can’t understand Burda instructions (typical for me) or Burda drafted the slit wrong. The instructions, as I read them, have me bast the front, back and sleeves together; (2) finish the slit; (3) gather the strap ends and attach to the back neckline.  (There are notches designating the attachment points which I found. Score for me.) (4) gather the  front pieces  (5) place the front pieces over and under the strap and stitching together.  Again a bit fiddly but I thought I had done all correctly. Except this is not a garment I can wear.

Do you see that hole?  Mimie is not a duplicate of me but she’s pretty close.  That hole is going to land between belly button and under bust. I can’t wear that anywhere outside of my bedroom.  Winter and Mid-West Prairie winds are not even under consideration.

This is all basted together so I think, maybe I can change this into a tie of some sort:

That looks better, but I still have the big ol’ hole for the winds to whistle through and who knows what will happen when I bend over. Plus the loop-scarf, is looped twice and I can’t figure out how to finish the neck edge.  I don’t like unfinished necklines. They stretch. Had this been a woven it would fray. Some knits will run.

Plus look at the masses of swag like folds across the middle. They’re even more visible from a side view:

Is that the fabric?  Is that my pattern alteration? Is that correctable?

I have no more photos to share.  I did try stitching the slit/hole using a faggotting stitch which would bring the two edges of the slit together.  The side view of that was incredible. I had this half-moon shape arc starting at the under bust, curving inward, downward, and then jutting upward just above my tummy.  Not good. Just not good.  I put the fabric and pattern pieces away for a few days. I don’t know how to correct this and I don’t have enough fabric left to cut a new front. It’s all in the trash.  It’s all over now.

Love Burda styling.  Just wish I could understand their patterns better.