After Christmas I had a few projects cut and in the closet. I finished the Otto blouse muslin and then concentrated on the next project a vest from Burda Style 421 issue #972.
It’s a wadder.
I had traced the pattern pieces and a 1″ back waist adjustment. I didn’t want to redraw dart lines and side curves especially on 4 different pattern pieces, so I made the BWL high up. Maybe 3/4″ below the armscye. I’m not sure if the pattern in incorrectly drafted, or I traced it wrong, or that the BWL knocked things out of alignment. What I found was the bust dart, which was not changed in any way, was really difficult to sew. I had to pin in several places and stretch hard.
I didn’t like the way stitching the bust dart changed the direction of the grain but proceeded. After all, just because I haven’t done it or seen it before, doesn’t mean that it is wrong. I could not attached the side front and side backs smoothly. I checked the BWL alteration. I checked against the original master. I don’t see gathering in the photos. But my fabric would have to gather in order to fit. I really didn’t like that. Sometimes when things go wrong, you can recover. A small change here, scoop a bit there. But sometimes the more you change things the worse they become. I tried stitching these seams together without easing. It would have made the armscye dreadfully small.
At this point I looked carefully and asked “do I keep working, or admit that this isn’t what I had in mind?” “How much do I have invested?” The upshot is that not only did this fabric go into the trash, but so did the pattern and the lining. I’m recording this now only so that if I’m tempted to use this pattern in the future—I won’t.